After the BFI London Film Festival (LFF) in October was motivated and traveled to the Continent as I had in 2019 to Italy “…again for the first time.” This year Paris beckoned and for first time I traveled via “Eurostar” train from London’s St. Pancras station arriving two hours and fifteen minutes later in Paris’s Gare du Nord train station. Lovely countryside from Britain to France and the time in the “chunnel” was minimal. I had my own pique nique from my excellent lunch in Charlie’s (Brown’s Hotel) the day before, some chardonnay and the time sped by.

***Stephanie Mardesich & Sally Corkran Jarrett dining in Le Grand Colbert 14 octobre***

It’s been over a decade since I was in the “City of Lights” though I still recall my first time there as an ingénue en route to Universite de Dijon for “cours de vacance” summer term many decades ago. It’s been about ten years since my last visit so I was “in Paris again for the first time”’ and choreographed a cinematic scenario of my own. Joined by my long time University of Southern California (USC) friend Sally Corkran Jarrett (aka “Corky”), originally from Devon, Pennsylvania currently residing in Chappaqua, NY, she met me via a brief visit to Iceland. With our mind and hearts open, we reminded ourselves of Cornelia Otis Skinner and comrade she wrote about with our educated naiveté seeking “adventures.”

Our rendez vous in Paris began samedi (Saturday) afternoon October 14, in (Marriott) Champs Elysee with the magnificent Arc de Triomphe in view. Our first evening dining in “Le Grand Colbert” classic brasserie (founded c. 1899 when the historic site was transformed into a restaurant) featured in the delightful romantic comedy Something’s Gotta Give (USA, 2003) starring Jack Nicolson, Diane Keaton, Keanu Reeves. We were warmly welcomed and enjoyed wine at the bar awaiting our table, then dined on fabulous huitres (oysters), poulet roti (roasted chicken), haricots verts (green beans), pommes frites (French fries) and excellent Croze Hermitages (Rhone-red wine) and chatted with diners at table near us.

Dimanche (Sunday) we ventured to Chateau de Versailles. Arriving at the elaborate Palace that evolved from more humble to magnificent by “the Sun King” Louis XIV, longest serving and most powerful monarch in European history, one is impressed by the imposing architecture and vast dimension of the property. The weather was lovely, warm like California. Throngs of tourists, even in mid-October, present at this Unesco World Heritage site and made it tense to navigate the “elbow to elbow” crowd., yet we made it through the rooms and galleries, with the exceptional art including famous painting of Napoleon Bonaparte being crowned Emperor and eventually to the renowned “Hall of Mirrors.”

To prepare read about the era and view movies such as MGM classic Marie Antoinette (1939) that starred Norma Shearer as the ill fated queen with stellar cast. It was serendipity that on my return American Airlines flight to USA Jeanne du Barry (France, 2023) was an entertainment option. Viewing the film I was transported back to Versailles where I had just walked in the path of King Louis XV (played by Johnny Depp) and his most famous mistress (played by Maiwen), and the prelude to the infamous revolution and “Reign of Terror.”

There are many ways to travel to the Chateau: via Metro, train, taxi or call a car (as in Uber) and my bon copain (good pal) Corky was able to link to the latter. Being the “Luddite” I opted for taxies, much easier to negotiate, though Corky’s ability was appreciated. The @25 mile drive to Versailles is through lovely countryside. We arrived late morning and spent a few hours immersed in the historical atmosphere. Be sure to wear good walking shoes and allow enough time to visit the Trianon, Queen’s Hamlet and other gardens, take a picnic and spend the day, and also enjoy the quaint local town with many cafes and restaurants.

We harried back to Paris to prepare for the Batteaux Mouches “Experience” dinner cruise on the River Scene, just like Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant in the romantic suspenseful movie Charade (USA, 1963). Traffic is excessive as it is everywhere and one must allow extra time to arrive at a destination. Even allowing for arrived at the quay and then quite a walk to the boat, with no time to spare and relished our welcoming glass of Moet as we embarked on the languid journey. Delightful with live music combo serenading with tunes from Cole Porter to Burt Bacharach, cuisine and service quite good, the radiant lights illuminating the monuments along the shoreline, particularly the golden aura of le Tour Eiffel, we only missed meeting our own version of Cary Grant, though we did meet a couple on the boat who are friends of our local favorite son James Brown, proprietor of San Pedro Brewing Company and Port Town Brewery, in historic downtown San Pedro (HSP). Traveling the Seine reflects the rich and complicated history of France, echoed in the ill-fated revolution of 1789, subsequent “Reign of Terror”, more revolutions, surviving world wars, think Casablanca and Rick and Ilsa, are part of the landscape of romantic and mysterious Paris.

Lundi (Monday) was some leisurely touring and early dinner in Entrecote de Paris, recommended by a good friend, and near our hotel, though there are several restaurants in the “chain” known for “steak & (unlimited) frites.” Very pleasant, affordable, great wine and excellent sauce for the steak. Fun and relaxing.

Mardi (Tuesday) was time to re-visit the tomb of Napoleon that’s had a lasting impact since I first viewed the imposing crypt my first time in Paris. It imperative to return to Hotel des Invilades and the Musee de l’Armee with its gilded Dome that attracts visitors to explore the history of France through the imposing crypt and impressive displays of artillery. Revered, and sometimes reviled, Corsican born Napoleon ascended to high office of General and “ruler” Emperor, then crashed and exiled the tie Isle of Elba. Ending that exile of his own volition he was welcomed back to lead more conquests (and defeats) eventually to his final exile isle of St. Helena, upon his death enshrined in his beloved France in the massive crypt in the venerable museum. From London to Paris the new film Napoleon by esteemed director Ridley Scott was being promoted so it was in my mind to see the film upon my return to USA (review follows).

From the museum we adjourned to enjoy a lavish luncheon in Le Taillevant (where I’d dined when last in Paris), superb two Michelin stars restaurant. Refined and elegant, yet warm and welcoming; and coute tres chere (as in expensive!). It was an exquisite culinary experience. We met chef Giuliano Sperandio who personally autographed a magazine he was featured in that I bestowed upon Thomas, proprietor (with spouse Lani) of the popular wine bistro “Campagnon” in historic downtown San Pedro. If you haven’t been there it’s a bit of France in the harbor town; and the mussels are piece de resistance (and also “steak & frites” on the menu!)

That evening we had tickets to for Opera Bastille production of Leos Janacek’s The Macropulos Affair (premiered in 1926). (I vividly recall c. 1976 when NY City Opera performed at Los Angeles Music Center, starring supreme soprano (late) Maralin Niska, native of San Pedro. The Paris production had had a curious connection, continuing the cinematic theme, with Hollywood screen legends from King Kong to Marilyn Monroe in relating the story of star actress/singer leading lady Emila Marty seeking to renew the potion that’s kept her young for over 300 years. A stunning performance and prelude to our touring the original famous National Opera of Paris - Palais Garnier the next day mercredi (Wednesday). Constructed c.1865 Palais Garnier, erected 1861-1875 named in honor of the architect Charles Garnier (1825–1898) is also where the alleged “Phantom” resided in the bowels of the theatre in the late 19th century. The elaborate architectural master piece is dazzling. Our guide “Rafael” was genuine and informing, with details (e.g. the pearl necklaces chiseled in the statuary) and background to appreciate all the nuances. The Marc Chagall painted ceiling alone is worth the price of admission. In 2021 the LA Harbor International Film Festival “Hollywood Nostalgia Tribute” featured the classic film Phantom of the Opera (USA, 1943) that starred the great Claude Rains. Though many contemporary theatre goers know the musical stage version of the story by Andrew Lloyd Webber it was the movies that launched the myth for contemporary culture and over the decades many versions have been filmed.

As we exited the opera house it was time for dejenuer (lunch) and on my mind had been legendary Café de la Paix (inaugurated 1862) where I’d never dined. We looked across the road and there it was at the corner of Place de l’Opera. Serendipity! We had no reservation, and though the outdoor dining a la Parisienne style was tempting, we preferred the elegant interior. Thanks to charming “Laurent Mayzoue” Directeur General (General Manager), we negotiated a table that afforded a view of the lovely dining room.

Feeling the spirit of former patrons, “lost generation” scribes Ernest Hemingway and Scott Fitzgerald, and further back the great Victor Hugo we began with homage to the former sipping gin and tonic, and the latter starting with delectable and rather rare Belon oysters on half shell. Can one ever have too many oysters? (By the way the shells returned with me to become ornamental door wreath for a dear friend). We shared a salade frissee with spinach not endive, then a favorite Julia Child entrée of filet of sole meuniere, creamy buttery potatoes (the French us a “ricer” rather than mash the potato), with a crisp Chablis to compliment the cuisine. C’est parfait, the perfect epicurean experience. The restaurant is now part of Intercontinental Hotel (s) and after strolling through the lobby we determined this is where we would elect to stay next time in Paris.

After a splendid day a gentle rain commenced. Corky made her way to Kandinsky Gallery (Atteliers des Lumiere) to purchase something for her son, and I called in to shop briefly in Gallery Lafayette. As readers might infer I’m not inclined to shopping, more cultural and historical, though picked up a few items including truffles. That evening feeling a bit “peckish” as the English say she popped out to “Five Guys” Champs Elysee and we had a French hamburger experience “allez” (to go) in the comfort of our hotel suite.

Next day jeudi (Thursday) was our exit to Charles DeGaulle (CDG) airport traveling on the same flight to JFK, Corky home to NY and SM on route to LAX. Short and very sweet time. More to enjoy in the future and being in Paris again for…..Toujours l’amour (always love). Vive la France!

# # #

Movies reviewed – “Au courant” (contemporary) :

Napoleon (UK/USA, Apple Studios/Apple/Dune Films, 2023, 158 min., R, dir. Ridley Scott)

Action filled epic details the ascent to power of Emperor of France Napoleon Bonaparte (Joaquin Phoenix, and the enduring relationship, that sometimes bordered on sadistic, with his true love Josephine (Vanessa Kirby), which resulted in divorce when she could not produce an heir, however sustained them both long after the disillusionment. The magnitude of the scenario captures his ambition in rather studious mode. It’s dark and somber and one feels the cold. Immense detail seems authentic, yet Phoenix delivery is often “wooden” lacking subtle charisma and confidence associated with, though perhaps a pro pos of a military the exceptional military strategist. His enunciation and delivery often hard to hear and voice coach might have helped empower him.

Kirby gives a fine performance, wears the elegant costumes with aplomb, though she’s more earthy than as pretty as image of Josephine in portraits portray. Many dangling aspects including her children from her first marriage who appear early on then disappear, and reappear as she is dying. Apparently Napoleon was very close to them. More missing moments as when he remarries and there is an heir and what happens to the Austrian royal spouse and child?

It there’s such a notion as “chick flick” then this is very much a “man’s movie” for the lengthy battle sequences that director Scott is noted for. It was rather exhausting and felt like being in a war by the time the picture ended. Perhaps that’s compliment to “suspension of disbelief”? For this viewer, who has some knowledge of the history, however , it was hard to comprehend the sequence of events, even though there were “timeline” captions. Dialogue sometimes inane and moments that feel like caricature.Often too gory as is the opening when Marie Antoinette is faces the guillotine and beheaded. Gratuitous and grim, though possibly inaccurate in that it’s documented her hair had been cut and she sported a simple braid not wildly flowing hair. Dramatic license or accurate research? The script is disappointing for lack of greater insight into Napoleon the man, his complicated relationship with Josephine and his mother. Musical score punctuates action, though sometime over powering with liturgical motifs. A lot of food sequences demonstrate he had a good appetite while some moments are rather like caricature with inane dialogue.

It’s in wide distribution and I saw it locally at Terrace Cinema (RPV), so easy in and out and great pop corn

Note: Some partial nudity, sexual content.

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt13287846/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Jeanne du Barry

(France/Belgium/UK/Russia/Saudi Arabia; Why Not Productions/France 2&3 Productions 2023, 113 min., dir. Maiwen)

Recounts life of Jeanne Bécu (Maiwen) born in 1743, the illegitimate daughter of an impoverished seamstress and a monk. She went on to rise through the Court of Louis XV (Johnny Depp) to become his last official mistress as Jeanne du Barry. Superior production, fabulous costumes and set direction, and represents what I’ve come to describe the French sensibility as “intellectual sensuality.” Excellent performances by entire cast. Depp captures the detached dignity and mannerisms of royalty; Maiwen (also the director – what a talent) the insouciance and candor that probably attracted the King. Seeing this film after just being in Versailles was particularly meaningful. It’s mesmerizing, simply superb. Truly award worthy especially as Best Foreign Film Oscarâ contender.

Note: Bit bawdy and some nudity. https://www.imdb.com/title/tt17277414/?ref_=tt_mv_close

Some cinematic suggestions of films about or featuring Paris, many more to consider:

Romantic:

Something’s Gotta Give

(USA, Columbia Pictures/Warner Bros., 2003, 128 min., PG-13, dir. Nancy Meyers)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0337741/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Historic & romantic:

Marie Antoinette (MGM, 1939, 159 min., dir. W.S. Van Dyke & Julien DuVivier)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0030418/?ref_=fn_al_tt_3

Phantom Of The Opera (USA, Universal Pictures, 1943, 92 min., not rated, dir. Arthur Lubin)

Stars Claude Rains in tour de force performance as the tragic character.

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036261/?ref_=nm_flmg_act_45

Desiree (USA, 20th Century Fox, 110 min., dir. Henry Koster)

Stars Marlon Brando (Bonaparte) , Merle Oberon (Josephine) , Jean Simmons (Desiree)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0046903/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Casablanca (USA, Warner Bros., 1942, 102 min., dir. Michael Curtiz)

WWII era. Great scenes in Paris, and train station with drenching rain, when Rick (Humphrey Bogart) is waiting for Ilsa (Ingrid Bergman)……among many more memorable moments.

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0034583/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

River Seine, suspenseful, romantic:

Charade (USA, Stanley Donen Films, 113 min., not rated, dir. Stanley Donen)

Stars Cary Grant, Audrey Hepburn, Walter Matthau

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0056923/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Can Can (20thCentury Fox, 1960, 131 min., dir. Walter Lang

Stars Shirley MacLaine, Frank Sinatra, Louis Jourdan, Maurice Chevalier

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053690/?ref_=nv_sr_srsg_3_tt_6_nm_2_q_cancan

Literary:

The Sun Also Rises (USA, 20th Century Fox, 1957, 130 min., dir. Henry King)

From novel by Hemingway. Stars Tyrone Power, Ava Gardner, Errol Flynn and stellar cast.

“ Lost generation” from Paris to Spain.

https://www.imdb.com/find/?q=the%20sun%20also%20rises&ref_=nv_sr_sm

More…. about historic sites:

Chateau de Versailles https://en.chateauversailles.fr/

Opera National de Paris https://www.operadeparis.fr/en/visits/palais-garnier

Napoleon’s Tomb – Hotel des Invalides

https://www.musee-armee.fr/en/your-visit/museum-spaces/national-hotel-of-the-invalids.html

More….about dining:

Le Taillevent https://www.letaillevent.com/

Café de la Paix https://www.cafedelapaix.fr/en

Batteaux Mouches https://www.bateaux-mouches.fr/en

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Stephanie Mardesich, a native of San Pedro from a family who arrived in the harbor area over 100 years ago. An alumna of U.S.C. School of Cinematic Arts; founder-director of the LA Harbor International Film Festival; credited journalist and public relations consultant, she launched "Cinema Stephanie" film critique blogette in 2017. More recently, she created "Eclectic Culture" lifestyle stories and reviews blog. She is also co-producer with Jack Baric (S.P. native and R.P.V. resident) of the oral history project Stories of Los Angeles Harbor Area: For Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow (SOLAHA) - Volume II debuted in March 2020