”It’s A Small World After All” was the major theme song of the Disney Pavilion at the 1964 World’s Fair, the year I made my first visit to the Empire State with our family after attending (my late) brother’s commencement at The Lawrenceville School (L’ville) near Princeton, NJ. It was an exciting time for an ingénue from California. That small world notion might be still ring true today with respect to communication being more rapid and inclusive, however the “world” actually seems larger and New York City (NYC) aka the “Big Apple” is like a country unto itself. To dispel the myth it’s not like the intimate shallow charm of television’s Sex In The City(SITC), or callous Madison Avenue of Mad Men, or like the movies romantic carriage rides and strolls in Central Park or the joyful On The Town era of WWII. NYC is both welcoming and daunting depending on how one navigates the huge terrain.

Over the years I’ve spent countless time in the Big Apple yet after a five year hiatus my recent experience was indeed like being in NYC, again, for the first time. I began my east coast odyssey attending the L’ville Reunion Weekend end of May to pay respects brother’s 60th class reunion, and memory of our Father who was class of 1940. It was great reconnoiter with so many esteemed gentlemen classmates; survey the campus, donate archival items and check on the scholarship my sister and I established to honor brother and Dad. If you don’t know about this esteemed college prep school it’s 224 years old, featured in a very charming film The Happy Years, boasts “The Circle” landscape design by Frederick Law Olmstead (see PVP article March 2023-link at end) and the Edith Memorial Chapel with priceless authentic Louis Comfort Tiffany stained glass windows. It was all boys and now gone the way of “coed” like most of the other fine schools of its ilk. With 900 acres and its own golf course it’s a bit of Utopia and to be marooned there would be a pleasure.

From L’ville boarded the train at Princeton Junction Sunday June 2 arriving 45 minutes later at Penn Station for mid afternoon to rendez vous with USC gal pal Sally Corkran Jarrett (aka Corky) who resides in Chappaqua, Westchester County. Wended my way to the exit though getting a cab is not how it used to be ergo be prepared to exit and walk about a block to “taxi stand”. It was my birthday June 3 with a week of culture/history/dining planned. I was in residence in the famed Algonquin Hotel (The A), opened 1902 and home to famous “Round Table” of 1920s, it’s considered one of oldest hotels in the City. Fabulous location in 44th Street near 5th Avenue and Times Square, ideal for the culture tour we had planned. To my surprise the baronial atmosphere of the lobby was hugely changed with the dark wood paneling, columns, cornice work and moldings painted off white. It was a shock and questionable with regard to the antique status, however the lightness adds sense of space and the architectural details now more visible. The Blue Bar had been moved to be part of lobby that’s more inclusive, with adjacent “Round Table” dining area, there’s an open, yet intimate ambiance. Corky and I were to hold court with our own round table over the week with many G&Ts, Parkeresque & Benchley quips filtering our conversation just as they decorate the room doors. Hamlet the (8th) cat is the mascot and roams freely. The best thing about The A is the location and history. As a hotel it lacks some “amenities” like room service and mini-bar. Staff mostly very friendly. There is some live music in lobby on Tuesday and Thursdays that’s very pleasant. Nice addition is the deluxe coffee/tea service machine off the lobby that’s convenient for morning or anytime refreshment. Also there’s a “business center” with computer that this traveler needs to check and send email and print travel boarding pass.

Corky was delayed so I was on my own a la Sunday In New York (sans Jane Fonda & Rod Taylor)/ After G&T at the bar and pleasant conversation with travelers just returned from Bermuda cruise I wandered to nearby Un, Deux, Trois (42 years old French brasserie that’s been a favorite for decades). Warm and welcoming manager Jose and I had great rapport. I had sautéed Bronzino (in season), haricots vert, pomme de terre and excellent crisp Riesling style Austrian Gruner Veltleiner.

Monday was b’day lunch with friends the fabulous restaurant Loi Estiatorio. My fascination with the dynamic Greek chef Maria Loi who I discovered viewing her PBS “Create” television cooking program “Life of Loi”. Find her, you will not be disappointed! She’s like “Melina Mercouri Cooks” replete with Nana Mouscouri (beloved chanteuse of Greece) dark rimmed glasses and sports platinum blond Louise Brooks “Bob” hair style. Melina Mercouri was my mentor. Exotic, earthy, charming and devoted to the Mediterranean diet and olive oil – she toasts at the end of a program with a jigger of the magic elixir – utterly delightful. She was filming season three of her program in Greece though expected back by end of the week and we returned to meet her.

Six of us enjoyed our own Greek smorgasboard of traditional meze (appetizers), toropita, salata, mousaka, lamb shank. Every bite was exquisite with freshness and pungent flavor. Refreshing Greek Rose and Syrah complimented our joyful feast with server Alvin treating us like Olympians. There was an array of exquisite desserts and a b’day candle and song. Waiter Alvin was a gem and we met Chef’s assistant Phillipe. Alex and Tom at the door were perfect hosts since wile Chef absent. After lunch Corky and I trekked to The Metropolitan Museum to view special exhibit of Southwestern pottery entered through the Temple of Dendur. The Met never disappoints just take ample time to explore whatever piques your interest and return again and again, never to see all there is to offer. That evening was our “Round Table” with director Joe Paradise and play write J.Paul Porter (Trilogy Blue presented at LA Actors Theatre) whose work I produced decades ago when I was immersed in the L.A. equity waiver theatre scene.

When in Italy all roads lead to Rome and to paraphrase when in NYC all roads should lead to the Statue of Liberty (SOL) and Ellis Island where we were set to visit the next day, Tuesday. Thanks to Park Ranger Jerry Willis Public Affairs Director for the National Park Service we had early access to beat the crowd and arrived at Battery Park by 7:45 am to catch the boat. There’s no charge to enter the monuments, only for the boar. We had Carmel car and limousine service pick us up at @7:15 am. I prefer to be “above ground” and don’t take subways, though occasional busses, and many taxis. Carmel, however is best transport for dependability and economy within NYC and to airport destinations. Reliable and reasonable. As we waited for the ferry we chatted with Park Ranger McCutcheon (34 year veteran retiring next year) and gregarious “Lorenzo” who’s worked at SOF for 34 years and truly loves his job. He’d probably pay to work there and no retirement in sight. We made brief stop at Ellis Island and Ranger Wilkes boarded and time with us. So informing and helpful and later linked with us with a colleague at Ellis Island. The new museum erected in 2019 with its grass roof is phenomenal including excellent ten minute introductory film and stunning displays about how Lady Liberty was inspired and constructed in France, sections on view that demonstrate the girth and size, the copper that now has gorgeous patina. She is simply a wonder of the world!

One of my all time favorite Alfred Hitchcock films is the WWII anti-Fascist spy mystery Saboteur with exceptional cinematography, including the Lady that’s a must to view. More contemporary viewers will recall the first Planet of the Apes famous opening with Liberty compromised. The SOL is probably the most recognizable iconic entities of all time and has been standing proudly greeting immigrants and others to NY harbor, since she arrived from France as a gift to the USA, in 1886.

On to Ellis Island and an informing conversation with Diane Pardues who has worked there over three decades. Her loyalty and dedication to the history is remarkable. The famous portal, known especially for great immigration era of late 19thearly 20th century, is now a museum with multiple displays and exhibits. My paternal Grandfather from Croatia (then the Austro Hungarian Empire) arrived there May 22, 1904, age 14. He was en route to an aunt in Cupertino, California and must have had great confidence, traveling in steerage fending his way on his own. Imagine children of today trekking across an ocean with out supervision, let alone no mobile telephone or GPS. He had a destiny to full and indeed Joseph M. Mardesich was a pioneer in the Los Angeles harbor tuna canning industry and “Captain of Industry” to be reckoned with. We returned that evening Un. Deux, Troix sharing the BEST mussels menieure and endive gorgonzola salad.

Wednesday was our matinee day with popular revival of Stephen Sondheim’s Merrily We Roll Along (seven Tony nods). Matinees begin at 1 pm these days so we left The Algonquin by 11:30 am to pick up tickets at box office then to Sardi’s (est. 1926) for a perfectly hand crafted Bloody Mary, by bartender Jeremy (24 year vet of the renowned establishment that exemplifies “theatre” with the hundreds of sketches of Broadway veterans gracing the walls. We munched on shrimp cocktail and smoked salmon to fortify us for the show.

The show was invigorating and lead performers terrific, though very “Sondheim” and bit depressing. Audience gave standing ovation. Fun to see Daniel Ratcliffe out of his Harry Potter m.o. and he deservedly a win Tony. Show closes July 7 and no confirmation of a road company. Fingers crossed we see it at the Pantages Theatre in Hollywood soon! Plans to meet long time friend and esteemed film critic Molly Haskell fell through so later we wandered up to The Russian Tea Room (founded in 1926 by Ballet Russe) for drinks and snacks. The warm ultra plush design homage to the grand era of Russia that’s no more. We imagined Lara’s Theme and Dr. Zhivago might appear. It’s where I tasted my first Vodka Gimlet that I ordered and was delightful as I remembered. We enjoyed the Palmeni, Siberian style dumpling swith mushrooms and sour cream sauce, beef stroganoff, and side of mini blinis along with a Kunde (California) Zinfindel. Chatted with manager Jeanine who was warm and gracious. Don’t miss this experience of stepping back in time with “old world” style with extensive vodka list and array of caviar.

Thursday The Morgan Library & Museum, where I’ve never been, was our destination. Located at 36th & Madison we hopped on the 5th Avenue bus and a very short walk to the museum. We shared a light lunch in the lovely restaurant (worth going there just to dine) and then viewed the charming Beatrix Potter exhibit that came from the V&A (Victoria & Albert Museum, London, England). Founded 100 years ago founded by son of illustrious banker/financier John Pierpont Morgan (JPM) by his son JPM, Jr. as homage to classic values, art and literature. In the library the original mansion that’s part of the gallery and one can feel the “old guy” walking through the space with hundreds of books, and dignified portraits. A documentary made in 1996 about the JPM who “saved the USA twice” reveals more. Special 100th anniversary exhibits include story of Belle da Costa Green” A Librarian’s Legacy who was trusted with elevating The Morgan to exalted status, that opens October 25.

The plan after The Morgan was to take short walk to the Empire State Building however afternoon showers put a damper on that so we returned to our “residence” to prepare for our special dinner at “La Grenouille” (the frog) last of the classic French restaurants NYC was famous for celebrating 61 years in business, for my “formal” b’day dinner in a word was “exquisite” from arrival in the elegant chic , warm and welcoming, restaurant with gigantic floral arrangements, piano music wafting through the room. Glasses of champagne awaited Corky and me arranged by her lovely daughter Bonnie (attorney at law). The staff were truly gracious, and so many memories rekindled recalling the grande dames La Caravelle, La Cote Basque, Lutece.

La Grenouille was ultimate in dining. Our waiter John was attentive and observant. It was “JP” however who was most solicitous and charming. We ordered the Summer Menu prix fixe three courses so we could indulge in sensuous dessert soufflés. The “amuse bouche” (reminds of Samantha in a SITC scene) then mini savory mini cheese soufflé. We all chose different appetizers and entres so we could share tastes. Appetizers: chilled foie gras with glass of sweet Sauternes, seabass crudo with Duxbury oysters and glass of cold sake, and warm lobster medallion salad with avocado – were all divine. Main courses: famous Quennelles, Bay scallops and caviar sauce; Sole Amandine; and Emance of Duck Breast all superb. Excellent Gundlach Bundchu Chardonnay (Sonoma, California) complimented; and for the duck a glass Gigondas.

Friday was our culmination day with the delayed visit the Empire State Building (ESB), 102 stories opened in 1933 is the premier landmark Art Deco edifice, once the tallest building in the world, with the 360 degree view of the “country” of NYC. It was perfect punctuation for our week long odyssey. The presentation of displays, facts, oral history memoirs, and film clips is spectacular introduction with staff in charming uniforms that represent the iconic building in mid 20’s/30’s style. Everyone was so helpful and love their jobs. It’s a MUST to visit to really have a sense of NYC, like riding the London Eye in England.

My recommendation is allow an hour and a half to enjoy the exhibits, the views, and shop in the store. If Statue of Liberty is the global icon, ESB is right up there (literally!). We arrived middle of the day, however any time is opportune. Of course one thinks of the original King Kong (“was beauty killed the beast” see only the original and look for some scenes filmed in San Pedro and Long Beach) and many film connections especially An Affair To Remember and Sleepless in Seattle. We then spontaneously ventured on to the Natural History Museum and the elegantly awesome exhibits. We had some lunch in café (very nice) and then viewed the “Big Bang” show that was mind boggling. Given our classic leaning we spent time in the American habitat section and in awe of the replicas of the amazing prairie and other animals.

On from the museum to call in at Loi Estiatorio meet Chef Maria Loi who is as delightful in person as on camera. Another taxi ride (by the way seems there are no “native” taxi drivers of yore – we met many from Haiti, Ethiopia, India, and all very pleasant and good drivers – brings true meaning to the American ”melting pot” concept).

Our final dinner was at Gallagher’s steak house (founded by Ziegfeld girl Helen in 1927) steak house that’s “classic” replete with the meat locker display of aging been as one enters and on to the oval bar. We hadn’t booked and were willing to wait, and it wasn’t long before we were seated n bar area to view all the action. Our waiter Giorgio took us under his wing with my perfect Manhattan (and traditional maraschino cherries for me please) and wine. We started with fabulous jumbo shrimp cocktail, shared filet mignon with creamed spinach and cottage fries “sides” and excellent glasses of Cabernet. We met another “veteran” who was on staff of Four Seasons and reminisced about another “gone with the menu” restaurant. Very clubby feel, with polished staff and jovial bartenders Fun chatting with other guests from Hattiesburg, Mississippi in City for Billy Joel concert.

The days of true glamour in NYC are a memory to be savored. We truly missed “21 Club” (closed permanently) recalling another Hitchcock fave movie moment in RearWindow; the King Cole Bar with famous Maxfield Parrish mural) in St. Regis Hotel, closed for renovation; Reubens for late night sandwiches and NY cheesecake rivaled only by Lindy’s, so many fabulous night clubs. The dining was splendid with real waiters who are still pros, chefs dedicated culinary masters, and atmosphere authentic. The cultural landscape maintains, wanes and grows with no shortage of curious tourists and infinite elements to consider and explore.

Departing June 8 there was a glitch in the plan when 44th Street was closed for another relentless parade. Beware of that when making plans. Didn’t have a last lunch at Un, Deux, Trois, though I had several “to go” items in tow. Traveling on American Airlines was comfortable and staff helpful. Waiting in the Admirals Club for the flight to LAX there was ample refreshment. The bonus was not too full flight, and movie selection; and I viewed the Oscar nominated The Hold Overs (prep school story). Excellent film that was defining denouement to being in NYC again for the first time and return to the West from the East.

(photo credit Sally Corkran Jarrett)

Cultural/historical (links easy to find in internet)

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 5th Avenue

The Statue of Liberty-Ellis Island

Morgan Library & Gallery

Empire State Building

Natural History Museum

Films

The Happy Years (MGM. 1950, 110 min., dir. William Wellman; stars Dean Stockell, Darryll Hickman, Leo G. Carroll)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0042542/?ref_=nm_flmg_t_190_act

Sunday In New York (Seven Arts/ MGM, 1963, 105 min., dir. Norman Krasna; stars Jane Fonda, Rod Taylor, Cliff Robertson)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0057543/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Never On Sunday (Melina Film, 1960, 97 min. dir. Jules Dassin; stars Melina Mercouri; 5 Oscar nods including “best” actress; winner for best song)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054198/?ref_=nv_sr_srsg_0_tt_8_nm_0_q_never%2520on%2520sunday

Saboteur (Universal, 1942, 109 min., dir. Alfred Hitchcock; starred Robert Cummings, Priscilla Lane, Otto Kruger)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035279/?ref_=nv_sr_srsg_0_tt_8_nm_0_q_saboteur

J. Pierpont Morgan Emperor of Wall Street (A&E Networks, 1996, 50 min., dir. Bill Harris; documentary)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0401119/

King Kong –original (RKO, 1933, 100 min., dir. Marion C. Cooper; stars Fay Wray, Robert Armstrong, Bruce Cabot)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024216/?ref_=fn_al_tt_3

An Affair To Remember (Jerry Wald Productions, 1957, 115 min., dir. Leo McCarey; stars Carry Grant & Deborah Kerr)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0050105/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Sleepless In Seattle (Tri-Star, 1993, 105 min., dir. Nora Ephron; stars Tom Hanks & Meg Ryan)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0108160/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Rear Window (AH Productions, 1954, 112 min., dir. Alfred Hitchcock; stars James Stewart & Grace Kelly)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0047396/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

The Holdovers (Miramax, 2023, 133 min, dir. Alexander Payne; stars Paul Giamatti)

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt14849194/?ref_=fn_al_tt_1

Dining (easy to find websites with more about hours, menus, etc.)

Un,Deux,Trois (brasserie) 212/354 4148; 123 W. 44th St. 10036

Loi Estiatorio 212/713-0015 132 W 58th St. 10019

La Grenouille 212/752-1495; 3 E. 52nd St., 212/752-1495 (prix fixe & happy hour menu)

Sardi’s 212/221-8440’ 234 W. 44th St. 10036

Russian Tea Room 212/581-7100; 150 W. 57th 10019

Gallagher’s Steakhouse 212/586-5000; 228 W. 52nd St. 10019

Misc.

Transportation: Carmel Car & Limousine Service https://www.carmellimo.com/

Landscape architect Frederick Law Olmstead

https://www.palosverdespulse.com/blog/2023/3/29/frederick-law-olmsteds-house-sells-again

Maria Loi

https://www.thelifeofloi.com

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Stephanie Mardesich, a native of San Pedro from a family who arrived in the harbor area over 100 years ago. An alumna of U.S.C. School of Cinematic Arts; founder-director of the LA Harbor International Film Festival; credited journalist and public relations consultant, she launched "Cinema Stephanie" film critique blogette in 2017. More recently, she created "Eclectic Culture" lifestyle stories and reviews blog. She is also co-producer with Jack Baric (S.P. native and R.P.V. resident) of the oral history project Stories of Los Angeles Harbor Area: For Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow (SOLAHA) - Volume II debuted in March 2020