Chef Christine’s June 2020 Culinary Column
Chef Christine’s
June 2020 Culinary Column
Porte-Couteaux, Coq Au Vin and Chèvre Salad
Porte-Couteaux is the French name for a knife rest or, more literally, a "knife carrier".
During the Victorian era, knife rests were made of many different materials including gold, silver, mother of pearl and ivory. There are many unique knife rests for sale, from cut crystal, sterling silver, and coral to simple bamboo. When we have a multi course dinner at home our family table is set with crystal porte-couteaux as a knife rest because we serve the salad course after our dinner (it serves as a digestive). The knife rest, as proper etiquette dictates, should only be used in between courses when one's plate is removed, otherwise the knife should be placed on the edge of one's plate between bites.
The following is an example of a Brown family dinner, using the porte-couteaux between courses.
Coq Au Vin (Chicken Braised in Wine) (Serves 4)
Ingredients:
3 # chicken legs and thighs
2 & 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
6 c. red wine
1 bay leaf
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
1 c. smoked bacon, cut into lardons, (1/4" pieces)
3 T. olive oil
1 & 1/2 c. yellow onion, peeled and cut into large dice
1 c. carrots peeled and cut into large dice
8 oz. cremini mushrooms, cleaned and cut in half
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp. tomato paste
1 T. AP (all purpose) flour
2 T. brandy
3 T. unsalted butter
8 oz. peeled pearl onions
1/4 c. flat leaf parsley, chopped
Method:
1. Place the red wine in a large sauce pot then bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the wine is reduced by half. Cool completely.
2. Liberally season the chicken with S & P, combine with the reduced, cooled wine, bay leaf and thyme leaves. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
3. The next day, remove the chicken from the marinade and pat dry. Reserve the marinade.
4. Heat a heavy bottomed pot with a tight fitting lid (or a Dutch oven) to medium low heat then add in the bacon. Cook the bacon, stirring occasionally, until it is crispy. Using a slotted spoon transfer the cooked bacon to paper towels to drain, leaving the bacon fat in the pot.
5. Heat the bacon fat to medium heat and add in the chicken (in batches if necessary) in a single layer and brown on each side for about three to five minutes. When the chicken has browned remove it to a large plate.
6. Keeping the heat on medium, add the diced onion, carrots and half of the mushrooms to the pot. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about eight minutes.
7. Stir in the garlic and tomato paste and cook for one minute then stir in the flour and cook for one more minute.
8. Add in the brandy and reserved marinade then reduce, skimming off the foam as it is reducing (this should take about 10 minutes). Season with more S & P if needed.
10. Return the chicken and half of the cooked bacon back to the pot. Cover and simmer on low for about 30 minutes then turn the chicken over and cook, covered, for 30 more minutes. Remove the lid and simmer for 15 minutes. Re season if needed.
11. Heat a nonstick saucepan to medium high heat then add in 1 T. butter and 2 T. olive oil. Add in the pearl onions and a pinch of salt. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes.
12. Using a slotted spoon remove the cooked onions from the pan and add them to the chicken.
13.Turn the pan to medium high heat and add the remaining 2 T. butter and 1 T. oil to the nonstick pan. When it starts to foam, add in the remaining mushrooms, season with S & P then sauté them until golden and the liquid has evaporated.
14. Remove and discard the bay leaf.
15. Add the cooked mushrooms and the reserved bacon to the braised chicken, stir well, then place the chicken on a warmed platter, ladle the sauce on top, sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Warm Chèvre (Goat Cheese) Salad (Serves four)
Ingredients:
1 # mixed baby arugula and baby spinach
1 c. tricolored teardrop tomatoes, cut in half
1-8 oz. log chilled goat cheese, cut into eight coins with a hot knife then chilled again
1/4 c. AP flour
1 egg, beaten with a fork
1 c. panko breadcrumbs
1/2 c. olive oil (plus 2 T. for sautéing the breaded goat cheese)
1/4 c. red wine vinegar
1 T. Dijon mustard
2 tsp. garlic, minced
TT S&P
Method:
1. Wash and spin dry the baby spinach then place the greens in a large bowl with the sliced tomatoes. Reserve.
2. Place the flour, egg and panko in three separate bowls or on three shallow plates.
3. Bread the chilled goat cheese coins, one at a time, by dredging first in the flour, then the egg and then the breadcrumbs. Lay the breaded coins out flat on a plate and chill for at least 15 minutes.
4. In a jar with a tight fitting lid combine a 1/2 cup of the oil, the vinegar, mustard, garlic and S&P, shake well then use immediately or refrigerate for up to one week. Bring to room temperature before using and shake well before using.
5. Heat a large nonstick pan to medium heat. Add in the oil and when it shimmers, add in the breaded goat cheese coins. Brown them on each side for about two minutes then remove them to a paper towel lined plate.
6. Add enough dressing to the bowl of arugula, spinach and tomatoes to coat the greens (you will have extra dressing for a later use).
7. Season the salad with a little bit of salt. Toss to combine then divide evenly among four salad plates. Top each salad with two medallions of warmed goat cheese and serve.
CHEF CHRISTINE BROWN
http://www.chefchristines.catering/
310.801.3684
Chef Christine Brown has been creating wonderful flavors for years. She began in the catering business with her mom and then attended the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park New York, graduating in 1991. After working with some of the best Chefs in Southern California she opened her own restaurant in 1996. When she was the chef/owner of Restaurant Christine (with a fusion of French and Pacific Rim cuisine) she was rated #1 in the Zagat review of restaurants 14 years in a row. Catering became an ever-increasing portion of the business and now she brings her cuisine to homes, yachts, weddings, tailgate parties, stadium luxury box elegance, basketball games, political events, wine tours, guest chef cruises, private cooking classes, political events, and an even broader array of special occasions. With our innovative designs and world traveled cuisine, we will help you plan the event of your dreams and offer you a memorable experience. We specialize in creative, custom catering menus and offer wait service and bar service as well. Whatever your events, we will make them the most special - small or large, casual, or elegant - whatever your needs, we will make your occasion unforgettable.
We provide the highest level of service, freshly made cuisine, and delicious desserts. You tell us what you want, and we'll make it happen for you and your guests. No event is too small or too large. Whatever your tastes, a most delicious event awaits. Chef Christine is just a phone call or e-mail away to provide her personal touch for your special event